Surfing with a legend!
We all have our Idols we look up to, or people we admire. Whether it’s your Mom or Dad, a teacher, musician, or sports figure. I personally try not to hold too many people on a pedestal, it’s just not my thing. But there are a couple of people in the surf culture that I do admire. I admire their contribution to the sport, the people, the industry, and their overall energy.
Well, I had an amazing experience the other day here on the North Shore of Oahu. I decided to go for a late day surf at off the wall. It was one of the smaller days here but the surf looked fun and clean. As I headed down to the water to jump in, I noticed a guy swimming in after his board. The board didn’t have a leash on it and was headed right for this big rock that was just barely sticking out of the water. I ran down there trying to save the board, but before I could get there I saw the surfer calmly walk around the rock on the shallow side. He didn’t appear to be stressed about the situation. In one magic moment a wave gently rolled under the board and lifted over the rock and delivered it to his outstretched hand.. Wow, I thought. That dude just got lucky. I actually said that to him, at the same time I realized that it was none other than Rob Machado. Only one of the most gifted, influential, and positive energy flowing surfers and humans on the planet. It was amazing to see this. He knew that his board would be fine. He’s one of those humans that is just positive energy and flows perfectly in harmony with everything. We paddled out together and had a nice chat. I thanked him for being such a positive influence and role model.
I guess the moral of the story for me is to be that positive energy and try to be a part of the flow. It was amazing to watch him surf over the next hour. Wave after wave would just come to him and he would ride it with grace and style like I’ve never seen. Check him out. Such a cool cat!